INTRODUCTION
Thirty
odd years
ago, having qualified as a teacher, I sought a post in a location
where I
could enjoy easy access to a variety of good birding sites. Hence
I ended
up living in Canterbury (Kent) in close proximity to such nationally
famous
birding sites as Stodmarsh, Sandwich Bay Bird Observatory, Dungeness
Bird
Observatory and the North Kent Marshes. An extra bonus was the
possibility of nipping over to France for some more exotic
birding. Now
that retirement beckons I used the same criteria to look for a home
abroad;
somewhere that had many interesting birds, but had the advantage of
being warm
and sunny. Spain was an obvious choice, but where?
Somewhat to
my surprise the answer was not one of the widely touted birding
hotspots
like Monfrague (Extremadura), the Coto Donana or the Ebro delta, but Alcala
de los Gazules. Upon reflection this wasn't surprising
since
one authority describes the province of Cadiz as "probably the best
province for a single-base" birding visit in
Spain. A casual glance at a road map confirms
the
village's central position in the province with an excellent (and
improving)
road system. Better still, it is located on one of the main
migration routes for birds of prey (and storks). With over 250
species
are regularly seen in the region, it is an excellent base for some
superb
birdwatching. Many birds that are rare in, or entirely absent
from, the
UK (e.g. Spotless Starling, Bee-eater, Red-rumped
Swallow,
Pallid Swift, Scops Owl, Booted Eagle, Woodchat
Shrike,
Serin, Sardinian & Fan-tailed Warblers, etc)
can be
seen more or less anywhere This variety is further enhanced by
the chance
of finding scarce or rare species; Europe's first Ruppell's Vulture,
for
example, was found in the municipality. There's also the bonus of
nipping
across not to France, but to Africa!
The notes that
follow largely refer to passage periods and summer. Winter
birdwatching, however, can be excellent. La Janda, for
example,
holds wintering raptors and Cranes. The mild
climate can
often give the feel of a balmy spring day in the UK. These
notes
mainly treat birds by habitat as this is the easiest option with
limited
space.
For full
details on birding sites in the area the reader is referred to
two very
useful books; John Butler's very helpful "Birdwatching
on Spain's Southern Coast" and the
invaluable "Where
to Watch Birds in Southern & Western Spain"
by Garcia & Patterson. [Note that the latter is
currently -
Spring 2005 - being updated]. A third book, Malcolm
Palmer's "Birdwatching
Guide to Southern Spain", is much
less
useful, but does contain a good overview of the status of birds in
southern
Spain. The "Travellers'
Nature Guide: Spain" (Farino & Lockwood) has a wider scope
dealing with the whole of Spain and in the
broader
context of natural history as a whole, but is very useful. The information
office of the Parque Natural los Alcornocales (off the Benalup road
just
outside the village) also has a very handy ornithological map of the
park and
adjacent areas), pamphlets on various walks and an excellent
exhibition.
Bird
Guides
The
following are the websites of professional bird tour guides in western
Andalucia which also have a great deal of general information on the
area's
birds:-
www.donanabirdtours.com
- the focus of John
Butler's site is on the
Coto Donana, but it is an interesting site to browse whether or not you
visit
that area
www.andalucianguides.com
- Stephen Daly's
excellent website has much
information about Cadiz province
www.spanishbirds.com
- Peter Jones'
excellent website is largely
concerned with the Ronda area, but again is a very useful source of
information
Information
www.gbnet.gi/~gonhs - Gibraltar Ornithological and
Natural
History Society's site; a good source of information esp. on numbers of
migrating raptors. www.rarebirdspain.net - frequently updated site on
rare birds in
Spain (in English & Spanish)
www.lagunalajanda.org
- an interesting
site on La Janda.
www.seo.org - website of "Sociedad Espanola
de
Ornitholgia" (in Spanish)
The village has a
good population of Lesser Kestrel (some of which are resident)
and it is
not unusual to see thirty, forty or more of this charismatic species
hawking
around the village on a summer
evening. Also to
be found breeding here are Pallid Swift (if you look hard
enough!), Serin , Sardinian Warbler and Spotless
Starling. At any time various birds of prey may drift
over and
during migration periods (March-May & August-October) there may
substantial
movements of raptors (inc. Griffon & Egyptian Vultures,
Black
Kite, Booted Eagle, Short-toed Eagle, Black Kite,
Buzzard
and Honey Buzzard). A very good "day out" birding
can be had simply by lounging on a well placed terrace with binoculars,
field
guide and, not least, a glass of wine, close to hand! For the
more
energetic a pleasant walk along the Molinos valley and into the nearby
hills
may produce all these birds plus Blue Rock Thrush, Woodchat
Shrike, Black-eared Wheatear, Bee-eater, Rock Sparrow,
Tawny Pipit and much else. Bonelli's Eagle, Peregrine,
Sparrowhawk and Goshawk may also be added to the tally of
raptors. A similar range of species can be seen in many of
the
villages in the area.
These three
slightly different habitats have many species in common, but a
different
balance of species and some specialities. A series of shallow
natural
lagoons (which sometimes dry out in the summer) dot the countryside to
the west
and north of Alcala. The large reservoirs (embalse) that
have also
been developed tend to be less exciting and the one at Bornos is the
pick of
the bunch. The Guadalquivir valley has some fantastic wetlands
whilst the
coast (esp. around Cadiz) has some large saline marshlands. The
freshwater marshes are particularly noted for the rare Crested Coot
and Marbled
Teal whilst the small lakes may hold both of these plus the
similarly
endangered White-headed Duck. Other
interesting water
birds present include Purple Gallinue, Black-necked
Grebe,
all the usual species of duck (including Red-crested Pochard), Flamingo
and a large population of exotic herons. The latter include
Little
Bittern, Little & Cattle Egrets, Night,
Purple,
Squacco and Great White Herons (plus the vaguely
similar, but
unrelated, Spoonbill & Glossy Ibis). Gull-billed,
Whiskered and Caspian Terns occur as does Slender-billed
Gull.
All familiar British waders are to be found , but may
joined
by Collared Pratincole, Black-winged Stilt, and,
less
often, Marsh Sandpiper in the appropriate season.
As ever in
this part of Spain the skies need to be scanned constantly for passing
vultures, small eagles, harriers and kestrels (both
species).
Although the Coto 'proper' is the better site, Spanish Imperial
Eagle
can also be seen (esp in the Guadalquivir valley). In summer the
reeds
& scrub conceal Cetti's, Savi's and Great
Reed
Warblers (plus Penduline Tit in the winter). Other smaller
passerines should not be ignored as they include both Short-toed
and Lesser Short-toed Lark and Spectacled Warbler (esp.
in drier
more saline habitats). [NB - in 2005, after a gap of
several
centuries (!), Bald Ibis have been reintroduced to the Sierra
Retin near
Barbate and may be seen in that area].
Sites
LAKES:
Laguna de Medina (c25 mins)
Laguna de Puerto Real (c40 mins)
Laguna del Puerto
Santa Maria (c30 mins)
Laguna
de Chiclana (c30
mins)
All four of
the above sites are in the immediate hinterland
of Cadiz and may hold Crested Coot, Marbled Duck & White-headed
Duck plus all the usual species for such habitats. .
The laguna is just
east of the A381 about 5km south of the
junction with the E5/A4, but note that access to Laguna de Medina is currently
(2005) complicated
by the upgrading of the A381. The Lagunas de Puerto Real [also
known as
Lagunas de Sherry] are north of the minor road
between
Paterna de Rivera and Puerto Real some 7 km west of
the
junction with the A381. The Lagunas del Puerto Santa Maria are just
north of
the village of that name near the Aquasherry Park. Lagunas de
Chiclana are c18 km west of
the A381
north of the A390. Reaching
them requires an hour long walk from the
road so they are the least accessible of these lakes.
Lagunas de Espera (c1 hour)
Good for White-headed
Duck, Crested Coot, Flamingo,
etc. plus birds of prey. One of my favourite sites and a pleasant
diversion on
a trip to Arcos (one of my favourite Spanish towns). Other lakes in the
general
area may also be worth a look (eg Laguna del Pilon).
This reserve is
well signposted off the minor road to Las Cabezas
de San Juan (immediately NW of Espera which is just north of
Arcos). Note that two lakes are next to the road, but the third
is a 10
minute walk, along the path, by the second.
Embalse de Arcos (c 55 mins)
A large reservoir
with nesting herons, waders and, fairly often,
the odd Osprey. Accessible at several points
especially off the
A382
ESTUARIES &
SALINE MARSHLAND
Bahai de
Cadiz / Marismas de
Santa Petri (c 35-40
mins)
These are
dauntingly vast marshes with large numbers of waders,
gulls, etc, but there is access via a number of marked
"sendaros" (footpaths).
Head towards Cadiz and use good local maps to explore the area. The information centre just off the Benalup road has pamphlets with details of walking routes (in Spanish)
Sanlucar de
Baremeda & Bonanza saltpans (c1 hour)
The estuary has
plenty of waders, gulls and terns and views
across to the Coto Donana. The saltpans (to the NW) have Flamingo
etc. but check current access arrangements. The boat trip up the
Guadaliquivir can be good for seeing birds, but is squarely aimed to
the
tourist market.
Take the A480 NE
of Jerez to the town and explore the area to the
north west. (See also Pinar de Monte
Algaida under woodlands).
Barbate Estuary (c 40+ mins), Palmones Estuary (c 40 mins) & Sotogrande (1+ hour)
These three small
estuaries accommodate all the usual wetland
species and can be particularly good during
migration.
Barbate is south
of Vejer de la Frontera and adjacent to La Janda
- note introduced Bald Ibis may be seen in this area)
.
Palomes is on the coastal side of the junction of the A381 and the
E5/N340 near
Algeciras. Sotogrande is on the Mediterranean coast c20km
NW of
Gibraltar.
FRESHWATER
MARSHLAND.
East Bank of the
Guadalquivir (c 50 mins)
The road running
along the east bank of the Guadalquivir
(accessed via Sanlucar Trebujena or Lebrija) offers view across to the
Coto
Donana.
Brazo de Este (Seville Province
- c1 hour)
Said to be the
equal of (or superior to) the Coto Donana for
birds, but rather dull scenically with much lat agricultural
land. A good
site for waders, herons, raptors etc., but especially good for Marbled
Teal.
A rather
ramshackle ferry can take you over the Guadalquivir to the
Isla Minima …… I've not tried it but it could be a good option (see
Garcia et
al)
Take the motorway
to
Las Cabezas de San Juan and then follow minor roads NW - the
route is complex; see Garcia et al for directions
The lush wooded
valleys of Alcornocales, Grazelema and other sierras are one of the
treasures
of the area. Raptors include all the species mentioned under the
entry
about the village (plus Golden Eagle). Many species not native
to the UK
can be found, including Crag Martin, Short-toed
Treecreeper,
Blue Rock Thrush, Black-eared Wheatear, Bee-eater,
Rock Sparrow, Rock Bunting, Tawny Pipit and Thekla Lark.
Nightingales are abundant. Black Wheatear , Alpine
Swift
and, in winter, Alpine Accentor can be found, but are
much
less frequent. White-rumped Swift is increasing in
the area
and should be looked for wherever there are good numbers of Red-rumped
Swallows (whose nests it uses), but they need checking carefully
for the
very similar Little Swift which, though still rare, are
also
increasing. The lowland umbrella pine woodland (esp Pinar de Monte
Algaida,
near San Lucar de Barrameda) is the place to search for the very
attractive Azure-winged
Magpie. More open woodland habitats also hold Red-necked
Nightjar.
(For Dhesa woodland see the next section)
Los
Alcornocales (c
5+ mins)
The
Alcornocales
Natural Park is on your doorstep and viewable from the village!.
White-rumped
Swift, many species of raptor (inc. Bonelli's Eagle) ,
etc., etc.
can be seen here. Good walks at El Pacacho & La Sauceda.
There is a
pleasant circular drive on the south side of the Charco Redondo
Resevoir
which can be combined with a visit to the Ojen valley.
Various roads
criss-cross the park all of which is within an
hour's drive. (A particular favourite is the narrow
road that
takes you off the Cortes de la Frontera road and down to El Comenar
station)
Ojen
Valley (c25
min)
Although
part of
the park the road through the Ojen valley deserves particular
mention. It
offers a tremendous, if bumpy, drive over the mountains and is one of
the best
places for birds of prey in southern Spain. Look for White-rumped
Swift near the 22km marker. There's also a short walk
(on the
right c2km after a ruined building) through woodland off the
road.
Take the A381
south and first junction after the
fourth tunnel (c34 km) exit onto the service road and continue south
then take
the road signposted for Fascinas. If you exit at the Charco
Redondo
Resevoir (c28 km) follow the serpentine service road south to the
Fascinas
road.
Grazelema
(c
50 mins)
Another
great, if
often very wet, mountainous area which is better than
Alcornocales for
species such as Alpine Swift , Black Wheatear
and, in
winter, Alpine Accentor (esp. Puerto
de
las Palomas). The
information centre Grazelema village has details of the best routes for
birding
(which also sells a bilingual book on the area's birds).
The drive,
via Puerto Gallis & Ubrique, takes you
through superb scenery and wonderful habitats. Explore the park
via minor
roads.
Pinar de
Monte Algaida
(c 50 mins)
Close to good
wetland sites, this site (near San Lucar de
Barrameda ) is the best place for Azure-winged Magpie.
Follow directions
as for Sanlucar de Baremeda
Sierra
de la Plata
(near Bolonia)
A noted
location for White-rumped Swift and Little
Swift.
Continue up the coastal road past the Roman ruins to the sierra (see also below)
Jimena
de la
Frontera/Castellar de la Frontera (c
60 - 70
mins)
Another fabulous
drive over the mountains with all the species
associated with the area. Again another good site for the rare White-rumped
Swift.
Follow well marked
roads through the park to the Jimena and then
along the A 369 to Castellar.
Although farmland
is, perhaps, a less attractive habitat ornithologically, it does
hold
some particularly interesting species. The well grazed, open cork
oak
woodland (dhesa) has a few elusive pairs of Black-winged Kite (esp.
around Los Naveros, south of Medina Sidonia) whilst the more
open areas
play host to Hoopoe, Crested & Calandra Lark,
Montagu's
Harrier and Black Kite. Stone Curlew
are fairly
widespread (if hard to see at times) and a few areas still have Little
Bustard , but no longer, it seems, Great Bustard.
Old olive groves may hold Rufous Bush Chat and Orphean
Warbler.
Olivaceous Warbler can also be found in riverine habitats.
Naturally, almost any farmland in the area will have some or all
of the
commoner birds noted in the introduction.
La Janda
(c25-50 mins )
Farmland or
wetland? In part it depends on the degree of
winter flooding, but the ditches hold many wetland birds.
This huge
area which was once the site of one of Europe's great wetlands and what
remains
is a poignant reminder of how great it must have been. It
only
takes about 25 minutes to get to the nearest point of this area from
the
village, but may take as long again to reach it's heart. Famous
for
wintering Cranes and raptors (inc. Spanish Imperial Eagle
& Black-shouldered
Kite), but also good for 'steppe' species
&
migrants being a resting site for numerous White Stork
etc.)
It also has a good track record for rare birds.
Take the Benalup
road out of Alcala and explore tracks
south of Benalup and east of the E5/N340 coastal road.
(Note that
some tracks are gated & of restricted access).
(NB -
Cuevas del Tajo de las Figures (south
east of Benalup) is a must visit location for the less blinkered birder
as it
has Neolithic cave paintings which, unusually , include representations
of
birds).
Farmlands east of
Seville (1+ hour)
The large area of
open farmland to be found along and between the
rivers Guadalquivir, Genil and Guadaire Great B. Little B,
Olivaceous W,
Rufous Bush Chat .
Head towards
Carmona and explore tha area. (see Garcia et al for
details)
One of the single
most enthralling experiences that a birdwatcher can hope to enjoy
is the
sight of a steady, visible passage of migrating birds. For
simple
reasons of geography and the dynamics of flight, such movements
tend to
become concentrated at the coast (particularly near narrow straits) and
along
mountain ridges (the latter point especially the case for larger
birds). This means that the passage of birds in this area
(particularly near Tarifa) is one of the great bird spectacles of
Europe. Great flocks (or "kettles") of Black Kites, Honey
Buzzards, Marsh & Montagu's Harrier, Booted
& Short-toed
Eagles, Griffon & Egyptian Vultures (plus Black
& White Storks) wheeling against the brilliant
Mediterranean sky
remains breathtaking no matter how many times it is
observed. This
shouldn't wholly distract, however, from the less conspicuous or
spectacular
movement of smaller birds. The Garcia et al
gives details of the best sites and conditions (wind
direction
etc) for raptor passage. Gibraltar is rightly famous in this
regard and
has a double advantage; helpful English speaking experts on tap (at the
Jew's
Gate information centre and bird observatory) and European mainland's
only Barbary
Partridge. Anywhere in an elevated position with overlooking the
straits
can be good.
All the raptors,
plus Black & White Stork, can
be seen migrating on favourable days. It's worth looking carefully at
all birds
as rarities do occur (e.g. 5 Ruppell's Vulture in
autumn
2004!) Migrating raptors and storks can be seen anywhere (inc.
Alcala),
but note that they tend to drift with easterly or westerly winds thus
determining the best place from which to watch.
Alto del
Cabrito, Valle del Sanctuario & Puerto del
Bujeo (c1 hour)
Gibraltar (c1 hour)
Sierra Higuera,
Bolonia (c1 hour)
The first three
sites are off the Tarifa/Algeciras
road. Gibraltar is well signposted. The turning
for
Bolonia is off the E5/A340c34 km south of Vejer - watch from the
low pass
3 - 4 km along the road.
Beach habitats
throughout Europe are under pressure from tourism, but there remain
sites in
this area that attract interesting birds throughout the year. Kentish
Plovers remain in good numbers, an assortment of waders may also
turn up
and gulls (inc. local Audouin's and Slender-billed)
often
loaf around on the quieter stretches of beaches. The
immediate
hinterland can concentrate passerine migrants (and hence be good for
rarities). Raptors may be seen, sometimes harried by gulls,
struggling ashore in season. On a non-birding note, where
there are
tamarisks look out for the rare Mediterranean Chameleon
'Seawatching' can
be a pretty boring occupation, but when there's a good passage of
seabirds, its
an entirely different matter! Remember that the rising or
setting
sun can make conditions near impossible. A number of
headlands are
well sited for the observation of passing birds although many suitable
areas
are 'out of bounds' due to military activity. With suitable (i.e.
onshore) winds Gannets, shearwaters (inc Cory's),
terns, gulls
(inc Audouin's) and skuas can all be observed (esp. in
spring
& autumn). Tarifa (esp. the harbour wall) is probably
the best
site in Europe for Lesser Crested Tern.
Punta Secreta (nr.
Aleciras), Tarifa, Cadiz, Cape Trafalgar (nr.
Vejer) & Punta del Perro (Chipiona)
All the above
sites can turn up a good variety of seabirds
although Tarifa harbour wall (and the nearby beach) is the best place
to catch
up with Lesser Crested Tern. Trafalgar has some
good
woodlands nearby.
Punta
Secreta is at the western mouth of the Bahai de
Algeciras south of Getares. Tarifa, Cadiz & Chipiona are both
well
signposted. The lighthouse at Punta del Perro is the best
site to
watch from Chipiona whilst the seawall is best in Cadiz and
Tarifa Cape Trafalgar (nr. Vejer) is well signposted
off the
E5/A340.
Gibraltar
If you need a
"Brit fix" this is the place for
you! It's also the best place to see the Mediterranean race
of Shag
Follow road signs!
Bolonia
& Playa de los Lances (Tarifa)
Bolonia is a
lovely site and well worth visiting for the Roman
ruins alone. The beach can hold a variety of gulls and
waders. The
beach stretching NW from Tarifa has a similar range of species and its
immediate hinterland can be good for small migrants.
For directions to
Bolonia see above. Playa de los Lances is
accessed from the town and from the the E5/A340 as it runs north.
There's little
point driving for much more than about an hour from Alcala unless
you're desperate
to see those few specialities not to be found closer to the
village. The
'Coto Donana', however, is an iconic site and well worth the visit even
if most
birds can be found elsewhere. If venture over to the Coto
it is
well worth hiring the expertise of John Butler (see websites) who knows
the
birds, and the labyrinthine road system, of the area well, but be
warned
he is often booked up well in advance. He is also exceptionally
generous
with his expertise and knowledge. (He's good company too!)
25/04/05